A lush green mountain valley with a river braiding along its floor, low cloud on the tops
Elan Valley·Powys, Wales·SN 927 646

Five dams.
Forty-five thousand
acres. One very
good drying room.

A small outdoor lodge on the edge of the Elan Valley reservoirs. Paddle the water, walk the moor above it, and come back to somewhere warm that doesn't mind the state of you.

73 milesThe distance this water runs to Birmingham. Downhill the whole way, no pumps.
1,800 mmRain a year. It's why the reservoirs are here, and why we built the drying room first.
645 mDrygarn Fawr, the high point of the estate. Two hours up from the front door.
Dark Sky ParkDesignated in 2015. On a clear night you can read the Milky Way from the jetty.
645 mThe tops

Walking

Above the reservoirs the valley stops being pretty and starts being serious. Blanket bog, peat hags, cotton grass, and cairns older than anything written down about them. There are no waymarks up here and often no path at all — which is the reason to go.

We run guided days on the tops and hand out route cards for the rest. Either way, tell us where you're going and when you're back. We'll leave the kettle on and come looking if you don't.

Walkers with packs climbing a grassy ridge line, green mountains falling away on both sides
Plate 01 — The ridge above Craig Goch, 09:40611 m · wind NW 14 kn

Drygarn Fawr

The big one. Up onto the Cambrian watershed to the twin beehive cairns, then back down the Claerwen side. Bog to the knee in places. Guided, small groups.

14 km · 6 hrs · hard · £48

The Monks' Trod

A medieval route between two abbeys, still visible as a scar across the moor. We drop you at one end and pick you up at the other.

18 km · 7 hrs · hard · self-guided

Night navigation

Map, compass, no torch until you've earned it. Two evenings a month, October to March, finishing at the fire.

3 hrs · all levels · £30
330 mThe valley floor

Exploring

The valley below the waterline is a Victorian engineering project that happens to be beautiful. Five dams in cut stone, a railway that only ever carried its own construction, and three drowned villages under the surface of Caban Coch. In a dry summer the walls of the old farms come back up.

Half a mile upstream sits Nant-y-Gro: a small dam that Barnes Wallis blew apart in 1942 to prove the bouncing bomb would work. It's still in pieces. You can walk to it in twenty minutes and nobody will be there.

The estate · reservoir chain · lodge marked CABAN ELAN CRAIG GOCH CABAN COCH
Ridge after ridge of mountains receding into mist at dusk
Plate 02 — Looking west off the Claerwen road, last lightvisibility 40 km · air 6°C

Dams by bike

Nine miles of old railway line, traffic-free, past four dams and back. Hardtails and two e-bikes in the shed. Helmets included, arguments about gearing free.

Half day · £22 hire · all ages

Red kite hour

Late afternoon, up to the feeding station at Rhayader. Hundreds of birds, close enough to hear the wings. We drive, you watch.

2.5 hrs · daily · £18

The drowned villages

A slow walk along the shoreline with someone who knows which family lived where, and what happened to them in 1893.

2 hrs · Sundays · free to guests
Waterline · 268 m · below this, everything is water
268 mThe water

On the water

Seventy thousand million litres of it, held between hills, flat as glass most mornings and unrecognisable by four in the afternoon. We paddle the permitted stretches under the estate's access agreement — which keeps the crowds off and the water clean.

It is cold. It stays cold in August. We'll put you in a wetsuit, teach you what to do when you come off, and go out with you until you'd rather we didn't.

A canoe waiting at a wooden jetty on still, deep-coloured water beneath steep mountains
Plate 03 — First boat out, Garreg Ddu, 06:55water 11°C · wind 0 kn

Paddleboard

Two hours from the jetty, usually at first light because that's when the water is still. Boards, leashes, buoyancy aids and a full change of clothes waiting.

2 hrs · from £38 · age 10+

Open canoe

Sixteen-foot Canadians, two or three to a boat. The best way to reach the far shore, and the only way to carry a stove and a flask.

Half day · from £55 · family

Cold water swim

Coached sessions with a safety kayak alongside. Short in winter, longer in summer, never unsupervised. Sauna afterwards, always.

45 min · £24 · adults

What we hand you at the door

  • 5/4 wetsuit & boots
  • Buoyancy aid, fitted
  • Dry bag, 20 litre
  • Throw line
  • Water temperature, today
  • Wind forecast, hourly
  • A hot shower on return
  • Somewhere to put wet kit
A long wooden jetty reaching into a glass-calm lake ringed by dark forest
Plate 04 — The swimmers' jetty, blue hour268 m
After darkBortle 2

The sky

The whole estate is an International Dark Sky Park, and the lodge has no outside lighting beyond a single shielded lamp on the boot room door. On a clear moonless night the Milky Way casts a shadow off the jetty rail. Most guests didn't believe that until they stood on it.

There's a 10-inch reflector in the shed, free to borrow, and a laminated card of what's overhead this month pinned inside the door.

252 mThe lodge

Where you sleep

A stone farmhouse, a converted barn, and Y Caban itself — the timber lodge on the shore that people book a year out. Twenty-eight beds between them, run by four people who live here. Breakfast at seven. Soup and bread left out for anyone back late. No televisions, patchy signal, and a woodstove that does most of the work from October.

The drying room takes forty sets of kit and turns them around overnight. We are unreasonably proud of it.

A timber cabin standing over still water on the shoreline, mountains rising behind it
Plate 05 — Y Caban, off the swimmers' jettysleeps 2 · books out fast
A cabin glowing warm at night among dark pines
Plate 06 — Lights on for late arrivals23:40

Bunk room

£32 per bed / night
  • Six beds, shared
  • Bedding included
  • Shared bathrooms
  • Breakfast included

Barn double

£96 per room / night
  • Double, ensuite
  • Window over the water
  • Woodstove in the hall
  • Breakfast included

Y Caban — shore cabin

£240 per night
  • King bed over the water
  • Woodstove & deep bath
  • Private deck & firepit
  • Telescope on the deck rail

Come and get wet

Beds and activities book together. Tell us who's coming, when, and what you want to get out of it — we'll build the days around the weather and send it back the same evening.